San Francisco Travel with Kids
Kai and I lived in SF for three years while I completed graduate school and he completed Kindergarden, so we have lots of insight to share with your clan. San Francisco travel offers more activities than you can fit into any one trip, so pick the ones that sound most exciting to you! We still visit regularly (we now live a few hours away) to experience adventures we didn't have time for during our academic pursuits. The only thing worse than driving in San Francisco is parking in San Francisco. Public transportation (which includes muni, street cars, and bart) is accessible, and walking is an excellent way to experience more of San Francisco's tasty nuances. Cabs are also an option (and cheaper than parking fees, tickets, and tows). Of course, how much hoofing you will do depends on the ages and personalities of your little ones. It is a city of character-filled neighborhoods; some of these neighborhoods are more suited to families than others. We outline activities and sights according to neighborhood to simplify your planning. The weather is often windy and ever changing, so bring layers and warmer clothing for any evening or waterfront activities.
Chinatown
Kai and I love China Town! The Fortune Cookie Factory (@ 56 Ross Alley) is a hard to find hole in the wall, but it is fun for the kids and a total experience. Purchase a bag of fresh baked fortune cookies. Don't expect a tour. If you like dim sum or want to purchase some asian ingredients, plenty of restaurants and markets line the streets. Buy some tea at the Ten Ren Tea Company (949 Grant), let the kids play while you rest at Portsmouth Square (Clay & Kearny), and check out the Waverly Place temples. Our trip is never complete until we grab a bite at House of Nanking (@ 919 Kearny)! There's often a line, but we either wait it out or walk around till it slows down. Try the Mu Shu Beef if you are a carnivore.
Fisherman's Wharf
The Pampanito
The USS Pampanito is a World War II submarine museum and memorial. This less known, but superb sight will win you and your kids over! Super reasonable too!Pier 39 is an especially hot tourist spot. You can eat clam chowder from a bread bowl, purchase cheesy trinkets, and listen to the seals bark. There are many activities for the kids including: Underwater World, a double-decker Carousel, and the Great San Francisco Adventure (all for a fee). Sometimes performers offer free shows at on an outdoor stage in the middle of the Pier. From Pier 39, you can take a Bay Cruise or catch a Ferry to Oakland, Alcatraz (may leave from another nearby pier), Angel Island, Tiburon, or Sausolito. You will need to plan these excursions in advance (and make sure you keep track of time, so you won't miss the last ferry back). Check out:
Blue & Gold Fleet,
and
Alcatraz Cruises
for detailed information. Make sure you get all the departure details since there are many boats coming and going, and you don't want to miss your boat! Beyond Pier 39, Jefferson Street offers Ripley's Believe It Or Not! Museum (@ 175) and the Wax Museum (@145). If you want to see historic vessels, check out Hyde Street Pier (between Pier 45 & Municipal Pier). The Eureka, Thayer, Alma, Hercules, and Balclutha are available for viewing (and some for boarding). Also enjoy the National Matitime Museum (at Aquatic Park). Ghirardelli Square (between Polk & Larkin) is a nice reward for well-behaved kids (use this bribe to keep the earlier part of your day in check). Also, a Cable Car Turntable is found in Victorian Park at Hyde and Beach.
North Beach & Telegraph Hill
Coit Tower (@ 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd) provides an excellent view after a rickety elevator ride (for a fee). Beautiful murals and history lessons abound!Filbert Steps line the east side of Telegraph Hill. A charming leg workout (may be a bit steep for very young children). Lombard Street is a tourist favorite. We like it too, maybe because it feels like a road through one of Dr. Seuss' fun tales. (Russian Hill). At Washington Square Park (bounded by Filbert, Union, Stockton, and Powell), have a picnic while mixing in the melting pot. You can see the grand Italian Cathedral (@ 666 Filbert). Keep up with the kids by grabbing a coffee at one of the many cafes that line Columbus Avenue (from Pacific to Union). If you have any italian blood, you may be particularly charmed by North Beach Museum (1435 Stockton) where early Italian-American culture comes to life. Upper Grant is a great place for a stroll though its Saloon (1232 Grant) once hosted a brothel upstairs. On the east end of Grant (past Chestnut), take the stairs up to Jack Early Park to get a view from the Bay Bridge to the Golden Gate (a good free alternative to Coit Tower). Founded by Poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti,
City Lights Bookstore
(261 Columbus Avenue at Broadway) is perfect if you have a book worm or beatnik in your family. Caution: Broadway (a.k.a. the strip) hosts several strip clubs from Columbus to Montgomery.
Union Square
If you have kids that will bear shopping (meaning teenage girls), this shopping mecca offers hours of consumptive indulgence. Here you will find an over-sized Macy's, Neiman Marcus, and the shops of Maiden Lane (including SF's one Frank Lloyd Wright building @ 140). Not a shopper? Union Square is still worthy of a walkabout.From the rear of the St. Francis Hotel lobby (@ 335 Powell), ride a glass elevator up the outside of the tower for an exciting view. Sites to see in Union Square include: Ruth Asawa Fountain (outside the Grand Hyatt Union Saure); the Sir Francis Drake Hotel (450 Powell); check out the lobby and take a potty break at the luxurious Clift Hotel (495 Geary); the Curran Theatre (@ 445 Geary); and the ornate Geary Theater (@ 415 Geary). Finally, don't miss the famous Powell Street cable car turntable (Powell and Union Square) where you can jump a cable care to your next destination! Warning: it's best to steer clear of the nearby Tenderloin area (bounded by Larkin, Mason, O'Farrell, and Market), especially after dark. Prostitution, drug abuse, and other unsavory activities make this neighborhood unsafe for children and adults.
Nob Hill
The Cable Car Museum (@ 1201 Mason)
Learn all about how cable cars work by seeing the mechanics in action. It's FREE fun and education for the kids!Grace Cathedral (@ 1100 California), modeled after Paris' Notre Dame, took almost 35 years to build. Visitors may walk one of the cathedral's two labyrinths. Other sites to see include the Flood Mansion (@1000 California) and Huntington Park (bounded by California, Taylor, Sacramento, and Cushman).
Financial District
Money, you can hear it as much as see it in the rich architecture and history that surround you as you stroll down Montgomery street between the Transamerica and Bank of America Buildings. For some of these professional buildings, an outside view is all that is permitted. We included this section to be thorough, but unless your kid's name is Alex P. Keaton, you probably don't need to allot too much of your San Francisco travel time to this area. Transamerica Pyramid @ 600 Montgomery:
The tallest building in SF, it was designed to allow more sunshine to reach you as you pass by. You may visit the lobby during work hours where you will find a virtual observation deck connected to cameras atop the spire. Bank of America Building @ 555 California:
The Carnelian Room Tops the building on the 52nd floor. Beginning at 3 p.m., you can partake of cocktails or dinner with one of the city's finest views. (The age and tolerance levels of your children will dictate whether this is an option). Museum of Money of the American West @ 400 California:
You will find monetary artifacts, including gold nuggets and privately minted coins. Closed on weekends. Several other notable Financial District buildings are worth viewing, including the Russ Building @ 235 Montgomery; the Wells Fargo History Museum @ 420 Montgomery; the Mills Building @ 220 Montgomery; the Shell Building @ 100 Bush; Citicorp Center @ 1 Sansome; Hunter-Dulin Building @ 111 Sutter; the Crocker Galleria (filled with cafes and boutiques) @ 50 Post; and the Hallidie Building @ 130 Sutter. Also, check out the preserved masonry buildings that make up Jackson Square (bounded by Washington, Columbus, Pacific, and Sansome Streets). If you fancy tea, the Palace Hotel (@ 2 New Montgomery) offers a Garden Court for your leisure (lots of twinkling glass, not the place for toddlers). The Embarcadero Center (bounded by Embarcadero, Clay, Sacramento, and Battery Streets) offers the Hyatt Regency Hotel (California at Drumm) where a 17-story atrium is part of the largest hotel lobby in the world! The glass encrusted elevators can lift you away to a revolving cocktail bar (if a break from the little people is an option).
The Marina and other Coastal Excursions
Between Aquatic Park and Marina Green, Fort Mason stretches 89 acres. Upper Fort Mason (enter at Bay & Franklin) was a military post in the 1800s. The GGNRA headquarters was once a military hospital. Golden Gate Promenade, a four-mile trail, links the two sides of Fort Mason. A youth hostel now occupies what used to be Civil War barracks. Reasonable private room rates for up to four occupants and single bunks available. (Contact
San Francisco Hostels
for information and reservations for this and two other SF hostels).Lower Fort Mason (enter Marina @ Buchanan) houses the Fort Mason Center which houses businesses and hosts festivals, including Oktoberfest. Prost!!!
Marina Green (between Scott & Webster) is a great place to fly a kite or rest. Golden Gate National Recreation Area extends in all directions from the Golden Gate Bridge. You can take a mile-long wind-blown walk across the bridge if height is not your phobia. The Palace of Fine Arts (@ 3601 Lyon) and the Exploratorium (behind Palace of Fine Arts) are popular with families. Nearby Presidio offers more military sites as well as Crissy Field and SF's well-known Baker Beach (Off Lincoln at Bowley). The Palace of the Legion of Honor (Lincoln Park near 34th & Clement) is a great stop for art lovers.
Pacific Heights
I love walking amongst the impressive Pacific Heights homes. In Presidio Heights, just west, an excellent view of the city awaits at the top of Alta Plaza Park. Another is found walking the Lyon Street Steeps (Broadway to Green).
Japantown
By far the best thing to do in Japantown is karaoke at Do Re Mi Music Studio (1604 Post)! You get a private room to share with your friends and family, so it doesn't matter how badly you sing. If karaoke's not your deal, grab sushi or tempura at Japan Center (Geary from Fillmore to Laguna) or stroll the Nihonmachi Mall (Buchanan from Sutter to Post).
Haight-Ashbury
The Haight District has some of our favorite more kid-friendly restaurants. Cha Cha Cha (@ 1801 Haight) offers Caribbean small plates and sangria (okay that's for the adults). Just up the street, (@1793) Kan Zaman offers Middle Eastern yummies (while this may not be suitable to all kid food pallets, hummus is one of Kai's favorite foods, and he became entranced with his first belly dancer there too). Most of the restaurants on this street are pretty reasonable and casual. You will be faced with especially young panhandlers as you walk through the Haight and experience a 70s flashback. Your kids will enjoy the colors and you can reconsider tie dye. When you're ready to get off Hippy Hill, Golden Gate Park is just a few blocks away (or spend the day in the park, and stop of in the Haight for dinner).
Golden Gate Park
This is definitely a must include area of the city when traveling with kids! You can obtain maps and information at the east entrance's McLaren Lodge (Fell at Stanyan, in the panhandle) or at the Visitor Center (@ 1000 Great Hwy.) near the Beach Chalet.Check out the impressively renovated M.H. de Young museum (@ 75 Tea Garden Drive), the Conservatory of Flowers, The Japanese Tea Garden, and finally let the kids loose at the Children's Playground. California Academy of Sciences is another excellent kid stop in Golden Gate park! It includes a Planetarium, an African Safari Experience, and Steinhart Aquarium. Also, consider Strybing Aroboretum & Botanical Gardens (9th Ave. @ Lincoln). Golden Gate Park is bordered by the Richmond and Sunset districts. Both have excellent asian and other food options for families. We love Pizza Orgasmica (@ 823 Clement - the best of its three locations) for rosemary potato pizza and beer (okay, Kai just gets cheese pizza). South of the park, you will find the San Francisco Zoo (Sloat Blvd. off Great Hwy.), Fort Funston, and Ocean Beach.
Civic Center and South of Market (SoMa)
Tour City Hall
(@ Polk between Grove & McAllister) or check it out on your own as it is open to the public during the week. Yerba Buena Gardens (bounded by Mission, Folsom, Third & Fourth Streets) has many children's activities and movies too (in case you need to check out for a few hours). The Children’s area, (on the roof) features Zeum (a children's arts and technology museum), a Carousel, Ice Skating (a few months of the year), Bowling, and a two acre interactive play garden. Call ahead (415-820-3550) if you are intent on doing a particular activity since hours vary, and they sometimes host private events. There are plenty of kid eats in the area (though they may be pricey). Visit SF MoMA (@ 151 Third between Mission & Howard), and check out some 18,000 art pieces. The Ferry Building (Market @ Embarcadero) hosts a farmers' market Saturday mornings. It's a lovely building. Inside you will find some family friendly dining. There's also the Slanted Door if you're ready to go gourmet. You need reservations far in advance unless there's room in the lounge/waiting area, totally upscale and delicious Vietnamese cuisine. If you are up for a treat, order a few appetizers and hang out in the lounge area with a lemon grass infused drink.
The Mission
San Francisco's oldest building (1791), Mission Dolores (@ 16th & Dolores) still holds mass daily. A few blocks away, there is a playground for the kids at Mission Dolores Park (18th to 20th Streets). We like laying around in the park on rare sunny days. Valencia Street offers cafes, shopping, and plenty of hipsters. It's a fun local-loved neighborhood for strolling. (You won't run into many tourists here). Enjoy a free outdoor art walk. Murals of the Mission District illustrate Latino life, work, and play. To get a walking map of the murals, go to Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center (2981 24th Street @ Harrison).
The Castro
Kai's first visit to the Castro was when he was three. It was the time of day when street lights become visible, and he exclaimed with enthusiasm, "mom, the streets sparkle!" And the do. We are fans of diverse culture, so we love strolling through the Castro. But, you must come with an open mind.Great reasonable restaurants line the Castro Street. Get pizza at Escape From New York, or burgers and curly fries at Harvey's. Follow Castro to 24th Street to Noe Valley. Also a great (and non-tourist) place to stroll with the kids for shopping, eating, and getting a feel of what the locals are up to.


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